Cross Country Travels: Glacier National Park and Montana

When I began planning my cross country trip, Glacier National Park was the key destination right from the start. It was the inspiration behind the trip and I essentially planned my travels around Glacier because I knew it would be the highlight of my adventures. In case you need to catch up, I drove for six days with my dog, Sampson, from South Carolina to Montana, making several stops along the way. On the sixth night we stayed in Shelby, MT since it’s not too far from the St. Mary Entrance to the park.  This allowed us an entire day to explore and then plenty of time to get settled in Martin City, MT, just south of the West Entrance to Glacier.  We spent five nights in this beautiful area I’d love to share some of the highlights of my time in this gorgeous area.

More From This Cross Country Series:

Planning for My 7,000 Mile Cross Country Trip
The Packing Essentials: How I Prepared for My Cross Country Trip
Week One of My Cross Country Trip: Getting From SC to Montana
Tips On Traveling Cross Country with Your Dog

The Week’s Activities and Adventures:

Here’s a quick look at the schedule for this week and then I’ll break down details for each of the activities and adventures:

• Day One: Cut Bank Creek and St. Mary Ranger Stations, Going to the Sun Road, and Abbott Valley Homestead
• Day Two: Two Medicine Lake
• Day Three: Trail of the Cedars & Avalanche Lake Trail and Scenic Rafting Tour
• Day Four: Lake McDonald
• Day Five: Apgar Village
• Day Six: MT – Flathead Lake and Missoula, MT
• Day Seven: The Montana Drive and Arriving Near Yellowstone

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Day One

Since we spent the night at the Comfort Inn & Suites in Shelby, MT, we didn’t have to leave at the crack of dawn to start the day. 

The hotel is about 1.5 hours from the St. Mary Entrance to Glacier National Park so we enjoyed a walk on the trail around the hotel and then took a leisurely drive heading to the less crowded, east side of the park. This is a less traveled area and I loved the drive.

Reservations Required at Glacier National Park

When I first started planning this trip, I had intended to come earlier in the year which would have required a reservation in addition to a park pass.  However, if you arrive from the St. Mary Entrance, a reservation is not required.  We were late enough in the year that it didn’t matter but if you are planning to go during peak visiting times, be sure to do your research.  Make sure you can get a reservation for the west entrance, or consider using this less crowded entrance instead.

Cut Bank Ranger Station

Before entering through the St. Mary Entrance, we made two quick stops to see two historic structures with the first being the Cut Bank Creek Ranger Station. 

It’s off the beaten path and we literally were the ones there that day other than the cows grazing in the fields as we drove in.  You definitely have to be looking for this road because if there was a sign off of the highway, I couldn’t find it.

If I had to guess the road was only about 5 miles long but at the slow pace I drove on the gravel road, it took about 15 minutes. Thankfully I found the park designation sign signaling we were indeed in the right place.

This ranger station was one of the first buildings built in Glacier by the National Park Service in 1917. It’s simple design is similar to the park hotel and was staffed year-round until the late 1930s.  At that point it became a summer-only station and today has a campground nearby.

Since we were alone, without service, and on an isolated road, it was a quick visit for a couple of pictures and then back to the highway and civilization.

St. Mary Ranger Station

The second stop was to St. Mary Ranger Station.  Before you officially enter the park on Going to the Sun Road you’ll find a road on the left that can easily be missed. So, you’ll need to be on the lookout for it.

Follow the sign and after a short drive you can park in the small lot and then head to the left and up a slight hill to find this historic station.  It was built in 1913 on the east side of the park overlooking Upper Saint Mary Lake.

There are also trails around this historic ranger station and leading to the Upper Saint Mary Lake.  Since I had Sampson with me, we skipped the trails but if you have the time, I would say go for it.

We then headed back to the main road, took a few pictures by the iconic park sign, and then entered the park for the main attraction, Going to the Sun Road.

Going to the Sun Road

Going to the Sun Road is in a word, breathtaking.  And it’s much more than a road, it’s an experience.  It spans 50 miles with several opportunities to stop along the way to view the spectacular views and crosses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass.  You’ll have the opportunity to see impressive glaciers, towering mountains, waterfalls, valleys, and wildlife, and is without a doubt, the main attraction of Glacier National Park.

From the National Park Service:
Without stopping, it takes approximately 2 hours to drive the full 50 miles of Going-to-the-Sun Road. Logan Pass is the highest point on Going-to-the-Sun Road at 6,646 feet (2,026 m). Logan Pass is 32 miles (51.5 km) from the west entrance and 18 miles (29 km) from the east entrance.

If You’re Scared of Heights or Ledges, Beware

A quick word of caution.  If you’re scared of heights, or ledges, you might not want to be the person at the wheel.  Too bad I didn’t take that advice not that I really had an option.  If you’ll recall, I started on the east side of the park at the St. Mary Entrance. This was not only because of the proximity in regards to the route I took to get to Glacier, but also because of the reservation system.  You don’t need a reservation when entering from the St. Mary Entrance.

But if I’m being entirely honest, the real reason I started there was because this route allowed me to drive along the mountain side of the road as opposed to the outside lane.  Yes, I have a fear of ledges that you’ll hear about more than once on this trip.  Despite my best planning tactics, I was scared to death driving and yet it was still 100% worth it.

There are so many opportunities along the way to take in the sights so I would suggest doing your research. This way you can decide what you want to see or trails you might want to hike before arriving.  This is a great article outlining many of the stops and there are also countless trails you can hike.

Below are a few of the stops I was able to make with my travel buddy, Sampson, in the car with me.

Dogs In National Parks

The general rule in most all National Parks is that dogs are not allowed on any trails or anywhere that they might encounter wildlife. And that makes sense. However, they are allowed in your car and you can let them stretch their legs in parking lots and other areas like these overlooks at McDonald Falls. Sampson was happy to get out and walk around a little and a very kind lady offered to take our picture. I was quite surprised at the number of people who brought their dogs to national parks which just goes to show I’m not the only crazy dog lady out there.

Despite being scared to death, I would still recommend driving Going to the Sun Road at least once.  While I had plans to go back to Logan’s Pass and attempt to hike the Highline Trial the next day, my plans quickly changed.  I decided I had no interest in driving that road a second time so I switched up my plans for the next couple of days. Regardless, it was worth the thrill and the chance to get a few pictures with Sampson made it extra special.

Abbott Valley Homestead

Once we left Glacier through the West Entrance, our stay for the week was only about a 15-minute drive.  We stayed at Abbott Valley Homestead and it was as picturesque as the photos on their website showed. 

From their website:
Abbott Valley is named after a trapper named Abbott who had a homestead claim in this area during the late 1890’s. In 1910 a Russian immigrant with the anglo nickname of Mickey Wagner came west to fight the 1910 forest fire. He took out a homestead in Abbott Valley, cleared the meadows with horse teams and built the present day historical cabins and barn. In the 1950’s the Foley family purchased this homestead along with timberland to the north. Together these lands make up the 270 acre Abbott Valley Homestead.

I found the perfect sized cabin for me and Sampson. It was nostalgic and tucked back in the trees at the end of the road.  This gave us plenty of peace, quiet, and privacy along with a yard for Sampson to explore each day.

Since I was told to be on the lookout for bears, I found this little bell to add to Sampson’s collar to make sure I could hear him at all times.

Day Two

Two Medicine Lake

As I mentioned before, dogs are limited as to where they can join you within national parks. So, when I read that dog are allowed at Two Medicine Lake, I decided to make a day of it with my boy. The lake is back on the east side of the park which was about 1.5 hours from the cabin we were staying in. But with views like this along the scenic route, I didn’t mind the drive.

And after a good night’s rest, Sampson was ready to go too. I packed a lunch and we headed out around 10am so that we would get there a little before noon and have the afternoon to explore.

Once you get close to the east side of the Glacier Park you’ll find a very small cluster of buildings with a couple of stores and restaurants. Be on the lookout for the sign to Two Medicine which takes you along MT-49N where you’ll pass by several cute lodging options. Keep driving and you’ll see this sign (below) for Two Medicine and keep driving all the way to the end of the road where you can’t miss the lake.

We parked and quickly headed to the shoreline and once again, the views were breathtaking.

Not only were the evergreen lined mountains majestic but the water was beautiful as well. From afar it was a beautiful shade of blue and yet it was clear along the rock filled shoreline.

A Special Afternoon With My Boy

Sampson and I walked up and down the lake’s edge several times and while I couldn’t take him on the nearby trail, I couldn’t have cared less.

The look on his sweet face said everything I needed to know. With the wind blowing back his cute little ears and the smile on his face made me realize that bringing him on this trip was the absolute best decision I could have made. He was at the most peace I’ve ever seen him and it was a sweet and special moment.

After we finished walking the shoreline, we drove around to the campground area. There, I was able to enjoy a picnic lunch out of the back of my car overlooking the water with Sampson beside me. Oh, and we got to see a few mountain goats too! Afterwards I packed up and we headed back to the house for the evening. All in all it was a beautiful adventure and an incredibly special day with my old boy.

Day Three

Since I was traveling solo, I boarded Sampson for two days so that I could do some activities I wouldn’t have been able to otherwise. In Sampson’s entire 16 years, I’ve never boarded him so this was new for both of us. Luckily, the first experience was a good one. He stayed overnight at Columbia Mountain Kennels and they took good care of him for me. I dropped him off that morning and then headed back into West Glacier for a day full of hiking and rafting.

Trail of the Cedars

As a solo traveler in mediocre shape, I decided I wouldn’t push my luck and opted for an easy enough trail to hike. If you’re entering the park from the west entrance you’ll turn right at the stop sign and drive just past McDonald Lake. You’ll then want to be on the lookout for this sign and either park on the road or if you’re lucky like I was, you might be able to find a parking spot in the lot near the rest area.

The Trail of the Cedars is by far the easiest hike and is more of a leisurely walk along a .9 mile long loop. Much of the trail is on boardwalks and there are a couple of bridges that cross over a pretty waterfall and further along the river. Even in the fall this trail was pretty crowded so if you want solitude I would suggest getting there very early in the morning.

Avalanche Lake Trail

About halfway around the loop you’ll see this small sign. If you’re up for a longer and more strenuous hike, turn to the left to head up Avalanche Lake Trail. This trail is a 5.9 mile out and back trail is considered moderately challenging. Based on the look on most people’s faces as I passed them on the way down, I would say most would agree. The hike is about 2.5 hours but if you spend a little more time at the lake, it’ll take longer.

And honestly, why wouldn’t you? When you venture out of the woods and set your eyes on the sky blue waters with a waterfall in the background, it almost seems unreal. Even with mildly cloudy skies it was a sight to behold. I walked along the shoreline a pretty long distance to get away from the crowds. You can explore almost all the way around the lake but since I had another activity scheduled, I headed back. This is definitely a hike worth taking.

After a quick stop to eat lunch on the shore of Lake McDonald, I headed to the Glacier Raft Company. It is located just past the west entrance to the park but before you pull out onto the highway.

Scenic Rafting Tour

My afternoon activity was a scenic rafting tour with the Glacier Raft Company. White water rafting was no longer available in late September but in hindsight, I’m glad because it was pretty cold that afternoon. I was by myself but quickly befriended the others on my raft. I loved the experience to get to see the west side of the park from the river.

Day Four

Since hiking the Highline Trail was off the table and with Sampson at the kennel, I decided to sleep in for the first time. Unfortunately I woke up to tons of texts from back home. While I was gone, Hurricane Helene tore through my community. So, it was a weird morning. After checking in with family, friends, and neighbors, I went ahead and headed out for a lesser known trail a local had suggested.

I’m still not sure if I got punked or if I just didn’t follow directions well but it was the most isolated trail I’ve ever seen. Not one car was in sight on the very isolated road and it didn’t get much better at the trailhead. The sign said not to hike alone, look out for bears, and also beware of mountain lions. So I couldn’t get out of there quick enough.

Instead, I drove to a different shoreline along Lake McDonald to eat lunch and then kept driving west towards Poleridge. My only regret at Glacier was not actually visiting Poleridge. If I ever have the chance to go back, it’ll be first on my list to explore.

After a little more exploring, I headed back to the kennel to pick up Sampson. We then enjoyed a low key afternoon at the cabin.

Day Five

On our last day in Glacier, we kept things simple. Sampson and I headed to Apgar Village which is to left at the stop sign as you enter the West Entrance.

It has a few shops including ice cream and the area is dog friendly. There’s also a paved dog friendly trail close by so Sampson loved the chance to get out and explore.

Afterwards we explored more of Lake McDonald and even saw a couple of folks on kayaks on the lake.

After we were done exploring, it was back to the cabin to pack and prepare to leave the next morning. Glacier was everything I had hoped for and more and I would go back in a minute. While Sampson prevented me from doing some activities, the time with him more than made up for it. He was the best little companion and I’m pretty sure he loved the experience as much as I did. I would rate Glacier National Park and the surrounding area a 10/10.

Days Six & Seven

The next two days were travel days as we left Glacier and Martin City in Montana and headed towards Yellowstone. On the first day we made a stop at Flathead Lake and it was massive. We drove around the east side of the lake and since it was raining, we didn’t stay long.

Our next stop was Missoula, MT where we stayed for the night. Once I figured out where the hotel was, we headed downtown to do a little exploring. Downtown Missoula was so charming and if I had to do it again, I would schedule more time in this area.

Early the next morning we headed out on one of the most beautiful driving days of the trip. I took the long way to Pray, MT which is just north of Yellowstone National Park.

I did this so that I could get a glimpse of the Dutton Ranch. I’m a big fan of the Yellowstone series but knew upfront it was unlikely I could see much. A glimpse from the road was all I got to see but the scenic route was completely worth it.

After picking up some groceries on the way in, we headed to the guesthouse we would call home for the next four days. And the area, well, it was surreal.

My next post will cover our time in Yellowstone National Park and the surrounding areas and it too, was beautiful. Check back soon for my next cross country trip post!